Day 3 Alaska: Pivot and Adjust

Today, Alaska tested the overly planning permanently positive Clark Griswold in me…

Not surprisingly after our midnight return home, we slept in a bit and enjoyed coffee in our little cabin. The boys were asleep when we got home – sleeping well I might add because it took banging on the door, doorbells and repeated calls to get them to open the door for us 😂 – so we caught up over coffee and breakfast bars. They had dinner at the Dirty Skillet again, and told us how good the steaks were (I’m sure they had nothing on the Dairy Queen chicken strips we had in Anchorage 😂), and we discovered that both boys thought the other left the tip for the waiter last night. So we added “stop by Dirty Skilket” to our open days empty agenda. Otherwise, this is an open day… another little God provision after the Rafting/ER day before.

We said goodbye the little cabin in Hope and headed to the Dirty Skillet.

The Dirty Skillet is down a short dirt road with cabins built all in the woods and a “Lodge/Office” in the center by a little pond. The pond is where the boys were canoeing yesterday. We had planned to stop in the Lodge this morning to look for an ornament, so we headed there to find Roman the waiter or at least leave an envelope for him. Search was not needed because Roman was working in the coffee shop inside the lodge. He was shocked that we came to make his tip right. We stayed for coffees and saw our waitress from the first night, the owner and several other members of waitstaff sitting around a table with guitars and music. They were playing and writing Christian songs. Apparently the waitstaff all live in the cabins nearby rent/utilities free for the 4 months that that Lodge and Skillet are open. Lots are recent college graduates just looking to fill a summer, but some are what they call permanently seasonal employees who go from one area to the other. Alaska in the summer, Colorado in fall and winter to work at ski resorts. We stayed a while and enjoyed our coffee and really relaxed Sunday morning with music.

Back in the car, we decided to take the long route to Cooper Landing, and check out Whittier, Alaska via the longest tunnel in North America. I checked in with my new travel buddy, ChatGPT, and asked for a map with interesting stops along the way… 4.9 seconds later…

The views were again just breathtaking. If 17 and 18 year old boys are putting down their phones and looking at the landscape, you know it is phenomenal.

We made it to Portage Glacier and Lake and the Begich Boggs Visitor Center. It was absolutely beautiful and COLD with an arctic wind off the water. The Visitor’s Center was named after 2 members of Congress were presumed to have died in a plane crash coming to this area. The Visitor’s Center overlooks the lake and the glacier which is little hard to see now because it has receded about 3 miles.

We were also fascinated by the poles along the roadways. A little research later, we discovered that these are snow markers. The Portage Valley gets enormous amounts of snow, and these markers show where the roadway, guardrails and ditches are.

In case you’re wondering why glacier water is so blue, here’s what we learned: As glaciers slowly, they slowly grind up rocks into an extremely fine powder called glacier flour or rock flour. When this lands in water, it is so fine it is suspended in the water, and then sunlight hits these. The flour reflects blue and turquoise wavelengths more effectively than other colors. (Thanks ChatGPT 😉)

As the rain came in we decided to head to Whittier. The only way to get to Whittier by road is through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel. It is a one-way alternating tunnel that runs each way every 30 minutes. The tunnel is 2.5 miles long and literally goes through a mountain, under water, through another mountain and then welcome to Whittier. (Little bit unsettling for those of us with Claustrophobia to think that not only are we in a tunnel, but in a tunnel under water)

Whittier is a tiny fishing town that according to Michael looks like you are at the edge of the world. We explored the town (about 45 minutes of walking)

We grabbed lunch at the Saltwater Cafe. This may be some of the freshest we have ever had. The “restaurants” are like little shacks with seating for 18 people on barstools.

We headed back to the car – making sure we timed our departure with the tunnel traffic, and off we went to Cooper Landing. Our new home for 4 days (Four nights in one place???) is in a clearly just completed area but has the greatest name ever – the Dolly Varden ♥️ The cabin still has that “new car” smell. But what it didn’t have was a washer and after the ER adventure, I need some clothes washed. Car unpacked, the boys went to explore the lake and grounds and I unpacked Mom’s cafe.

While the boys were gone, I got a phone call from Captain Jason about our rainbow trout fishing trip tomorrow. He said due to the cold weather lingering the fish really were not biting. He had gone out on his own and then again with another guide, and got maybe 2 fish in 4 hours. I don’t know what you know about fishng trips, but they are not cheap. I told him about Mike’s injuries and that we were doubtful he could cast or reel in fish and absolutely could not a rocking boat. In light of everything, Captain Jason offered to cancel the trip and refund our money. We were blown away that he would offer this! Although my overly detailed planning is getting crushed, we are taking as another God provision to us. So if we, or anyone we know, is ever looking to fish in Cooper’s Landing, Alaska, Captain Jason is the honest fishing captain that we will use!

We have a grill at the Dolly Varden so off we went carrying our bag full of dirty clothes, to find a grocery store and laundromat. This proved to be more difficult than expected. Alaska is remote. These little towns have Sheetz-sized convince stores, think a mini-truck stop, called Three Bears Alaska. These stores have a little bit of everything, including showers and a laundromat. We put our clothes into washers and walked around the corner to the store. The store/prices/inventory were crazy! Inventory wise I will give grace because it was Sunday night so maybe trucks come on Monday. And the prices are probaably reflective of location and shipping costs. The store was too funny though. For $16.99 you could get a container of olive oil or a machette. 🤣 They did have a MASSIVE alcohol section so maybe that makes the limited selection easier to bear 🤣 We grabbed some steaks for dinner and bacon for breakfast and all the fixings and went to check our clothes. Washers were done so we loaded the clothes into a dryer. Mike stayed with the clothes and boys and I ran back to the cabin to unload groceries. Wrapped the potatoes, salt & peppered the steaks and scooted back to pick up Mike and the clothes.

When I tell you those steaks, potatoes and green beans were delicious, they were outstanding. So much so, that I forgot to take any photos. 🤦🏻‍♀️

So now we are regrouping for tomorrow… Thankfully there are lots of great hikes around here, so we will find lots to do. Whenever things don’t work the way you plan, I always tell the boys: pivot and adjust. Practicing what I preach now so that’s what we are doing. We have bear spray and picnic stuff so the hikes will be great!

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